Penn Yan in Context

Penn Yan is the county seat of Yates County and the commercial center for the farmland surrounding the northern end of Keuka Lake. The village name comes from its founders — Pennsylvania Yankees (“Penn” and “Yan”) who settled here in the late 1700s. Today, about 5,000 people live in the village proper, and the broader surrounding area includes significant Mennonite and Amish farming communities whose presence shapes the local economy, food, and culture in ways that set Penn Yan apart from the more tourism-oriented towns on Seneca and Cayuga Lakes.

Penn Yan is 20 miles west of Geneva, 30 miles northwest of Watkins Glen, and about 60 miles southeast of Rochester. It sits at the fork where Keuka Lake splits into its distinctive Y shape — the east branch extends south toward Branchport, the west branch runs toward Hammondsport. The lake is visible from several spots in and near town, and public water access is a short drive from the village center.

The Birkett Mills: Buckwheat Capital

The Birkett Mills, on Main Street in Penn Yan, has been milling grain since 1797 and is the largest producer of buckwheat products in the United States. If you have eaten buckwheat pancakes at a diner anywhere in the Northeast, there is a good chance the flour came from this building. The company produces buckwheat flour, pancake mixes, cream of buckwheat cereal, and groats (kasha) that ship nationally, but the retail shop on-site sells the full line at factory prices. A bag of stone-ground buckwheat flour from the source costs a few dollars and makes a distinctive, practical souvenir.

The building, a multi-story wooden mill on the Keuka Lake Outlet, is one of the oldest continuously operating mills in the country. The outlet stream that powers it connects Keuka Lake to Seneca Lake and runs directly through town. The retail shop is open on weekdays and the staff is happy to talk about the milling process.

Downtown Penn Yan

Penn Yan’s downtown runs along Main Street and the surrounding blocks. It is compact — walkable in 20 minutes — and has the feel of a working village rather than a tourist district.

Amity Coffee

A small, locally owned coffee shop on Main Street with espresso drinks, pour-overs, and pastries. The roasts are good, the space is quiet, and the staff knows most customers by name. If you are starting a day of Keuka Lake wine tasting, this is where to get caffeinated first.

Spotted Duck Creamery

Spotted Duck Creamery makes small-batch ice cream and gelato from the milk of their own herd of Dutch Belted cows, a heritage breed with a distinctive white belt around the middle. The ice cream is rich and dense — a function of the high butterfat content in Dutch Belted milk — and the flavors rotate seasonally. The shop is on Route 54A south of the village center. Open seasonally, typically May through October.

Antiques and Shopping

Penn Yan has a handful of antique and vintage shops along Main Street and the side streets. The selection reflects the area’s agricultural roots: cast-iron cookware, quilts, and vintage farm tools are more common than mid-century modern furniture. Longs’ Cards and Books on Main Street is an independent bookstore carrying local-interest titles, cards, and gifts. For a village of 5,000, the independent retail presence is stronger than you might expect.

Windmill Farm and Craft Market

The Windmill Farm and Craft Market operates every Saturday from late April through mid-December, about 3 miles south of Penn Yan on Route 14A. It is the largest weekly market in the Finger Lakes, with more than 100 vendors in open-air and covered buildings spread across a multi-acre site. The market draws heavily from the area’s Mennonite farming community, and the goods reflect that heritage: baked goods (pies, bread, cookies), fresh produce, meats, cheese, handmade furniture, quilts, baskets, and leather goods.

The baked goods are the draw that brings people back. Mennonite bakers sell fruit pies, whoopie pies, cinnamon rolls, and loaves of bread at prices that make supermarket bakeries irrelevant. The produce vendors sell what is actually in season — no imported strawberries in March. In the fall, the market adds pumpkins, gourds, apples, and cider.

Arrive before 9 a.m. for the best baked-goods selection and easier parking. By 10:30 a.m. on a summer Saturday, the parking lots fill and popular pie vendors sell out. Hours run roughly 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Keuka Lake Access from Penn Yan

Keuka Lake’s east branch begins just south of Penn Yan, and several access points put you on the water within 10 minutes of downtown.

Indian Pines Park (Yates County) on East Lake Road has a public swim area with a sandy beach, picnic tables, and a boat launch. It is the closest public beach to Penn Yan and the most accessible swim spot on the east branch. Free for Yates County residents; a small fee for non-residents on summer weekends.

Keuka Lake State Park is on the west side of the lake, about a 20-minute drive from Penn Yan via Route 54A. The state park has a campground, swimming beach, and boat launch. Vehicle entrance fee is $8 to $10 on summer weekends. For camping details, see our lakeside camping guide.

For an overview of the lake and what makes it distinct, our Keuka Lake guide covers the geography, wine trail, and best access points.

The Keuka Outlet Trail

The Keuka Outlet Trail follows the natural outlet stream connecting Keuka Lake to Seneca Lake, running 7 miles from Penn Yan to Dresden on Seneca’s western shore. The trail traces a former railroad bed along the outlet gorge, passing stone ruins of old mills, small waterfalls, and wooded stretches that feel remote despite being minutes from town.

The trail is mostly flat (the elevation drop from Keuka Lake to Seneca Lake is about 270 feet over 7 miles, gradual enough to feel level). Open for hiking, biking, and cross-country skiing. The surface alternates between packed gravel, dirt, and rougher sections near the ruins. Allow 2 to 3 hours for a one-way hike, or bike it in about an hour. The eastern trailhead is at Seneca Street in Penn Yan, near the Birkett Mills.

The one-way format means you need a car shuttle (park one car at each end) or plan an out-and-back. A 3-mile out-and-back from Penn Yan takes about 90 minutes and passes several of the old mill ruins.

Mennonite and Amish Community

The area around Penn Yan has one of the largest Mennonite and Amish communities in New York State. Their presence is visible in the horse-drawn buggies on the roads (drive carefully — buggies are slow-moving and have the right of way), the farmsteads with hand-built barns, and the goods at the Windmill Market and local roadside stands.

Several Mennonite-run roadside stands along Routes 14A and 54A sell produce, baked goods, eggs, and preserves. These operate on an honor system or have a family member staffing them. The produce is picked the same day and the prices are fair. There are no signs advertising “Amish country” — this is simply the community going about its business. Visitors are welcome at public markets and roadside stands, but private farms should not be treated as tourist attractions. Do not photograph people without permission.

Nearby Wineries on the East Branch

Keuka Lake’s east branch, stretching south from Penn Yan toward Branchport, is home to several wineries less trafficked than their Seneca Lake counterparts.

Domaine LeSeurre Winery makes Burgundy-style Chardonnay and Pinot Noir — the owners trained in France, and the wines reflect that background. Small production, serious quality, open by appointment or during posted hours.

Barrington Cellars, on Route 54A, produces dry Riesling, Cabernet Franc, and fruit wines. Casual tasting room, approachable staff, about 10 minutes south of downtown.

Keuka Spring Vineyards sits on the east side with views across the water. The estate Rieslings and Vignoles are well-regarded, and the hilltop tasting room setting makes the drive worthwhile even when you are not in the mood for wine.

For the full trail route and profiles, see our Keuka Lake Wine Trail guide. For a lake comparison, our Keuka vs. Seneca breakdown covers the differences in size, character, and winery style.

Day Trip Planning from Penn Yan

• Half-day, food-focused: Start at Amity Coffee, walk to the Birkett Mills shop, drive to the Windmill Market (Saturdays only). Pick up pies, produce, and bread. Afternoon ice cream at Spotted Duck Creamery.
• Half-day, outdoor: Hike the Keuka Outlet Trail from Penn Yan (3-mile out-and-back, about 90 minutes). Then swim at Indian Pines Park on the east branch.
• Full day, wine and lake: Morning coffee in Penn Yan, then drive the east branch visiting Keuka Spring, Barrington, and Domaine LeSeurre. Afternoon at Indian Pines Park or Keuka Lake State Park.