The Deepest Lake, the Fullest Weekend

Seneca Lake is 38 miles long and 618 feet deep — the largest body of water in the Finger Lakes by volume, and the engine behind the region’s most concentrated stretch of vineyards. The lake’s thermal mass moderates hillside temperatures enough to ripen Riesling, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir on slopes that would otherwise be too cold. In two days, you can drive the full loop, stopping at tasting rooms on both shores, hiking through one of the most dramatic gorges in the eastern United States, and eating at restaurants that have put this stretch of Route 414 on the national food map.

This itinerary starts and ends in Geneva, using the city as a base camp. Total driving for the weekend is roughly 120 miles — all of it on two-lane lakeside roads with vineyard views.

Day 1: The East Side

Morning: Geneva and the Drive South

Start at Kindred Fare on Exchange Street in downtown Geneva. The breakfast menu leans seasonal and local — think grain bowls, house-baked pastries, and a solid cortado. It fills up on weekends, so aim for an 8:30 arrival or expect a short wait. Street parking is free before 10 a.m.

After breakfast, pick up Route 14 south along the east shore. The lake opens up immediately on your right, with vine rows climbing the hillsides to your left. The drive from Geneva to your first winery stop is about 25 minutes.

Mid-Morning: Boundary Breaks and Lamoreaux Landing

Boundary Breaks sits high on a bluff above the lake at an elevation that most Finger Lakes growers consider too risky — and that gamble pays off. Their dry Rieslings are routinely among the best in the region, with a minerality that comes from the site’s thin, well-drained soils. The tasting room is small and no-frills; the focus is entirely on what’s in the glass. Tastings are first-come, first-served, and the staff is generous with their time if you have questions about viticulture.

From Boundary Breaks, it’s a five-minute drive south to Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars. The Greek Revival tasting room with its tall white columns is one of the most photographed buildings on the lake. Beyond the architecture, the wines are serious — the estate Rieslings and Cabernet Franc are consistently well-made. The tasting bar faces floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the vineyard and lake. Budget 30 to 45 minutes at each stop.

Lunch: Red Newt Bistro, Hector

Continue south on Route 414 for about 15 minutes to Red Newt Bistro in Hector. This is not a winery restaurant that happens to serve food — it’s a genuine farm-driven kitchen that happens to be attached to a winery. The menu changes with what’s available from nearby farms, but expect dishes like seared duck breast with seasonal vegetables or house-made pasta with local mushrooms. The wine list, naturally, features Red Newt’s own bottles alongside other Finger Lakes producers. Reservations are strongly recommended for weekend lunch, especially in summer and fall.

Afternoon: Watkins Glen State Park

From Hector, drive 20 minutes south to Watkins Glen State Park at the southern tip of the lake. The Gorge Trail is a two-mile walk through a narrow canyon that drops 400 feet, passing 19 waterfalls and ducking behind a curtain of water at Cavern Cascade. There are more than 800 stone steps — this is not a casual stroll. Wear shoes with grip and expect the trail to take 60 to 90 minutes one way.

A few logistics to know:

• The gorge trail is open roughly mid-May through early November, weather dependent. Check the park’s website the morning of your visit.
• Parking fills early on summer weekends — arrive by 1:00 p.m. or later in the afternoon when the morning crowds thin.
• Dogs are not allowed on the Gorge Trail, though they are permitted on the Rim Trails.
• A shuttle runs from the top of the gorge back to the main entrance, so you can hike one way and ride back.

Dinner: Dano’s Heuriger on Lodi Point

Drive 20 minutes north from Watkins Glen on Route 414 to Dano’s Heuriger on Lodi Point Road. This is one of the most singular dining experiences in the Finger Lakes — an Austrian wine tavern (“Heuriger”) run by chef Dano Hutnik out of a small farmhouse overlooking the lake. The menu is fixed-price and Austrian-accented: think Wiener schnitzel, spaetzle, seasonal salads from the garden, and house-made strudel.

What you need to know:

• Cash only. There is no card reader.
• BYOB — bring your own wine. This is a feature, not a limitation. Pick up a bottle earlier in the day from one of the east-side tasting rooms.
• Reservations are essential. Dano’s seats a limited number of guests each evening and books out, especially on weekends in peak season. Call well ahead.
• The dining room is intimate and the pace is unhurried. Plan for a two-hour dinner.

Day 2: The West Side

Morning: Glenora and Hermann J. Wiemer

Cross to the west shore via Route 79 at the southern end of the lake, or drive back through Watkins Glen and pick up Route 14 heading north. Your first stop is Glenora Wine Cellars, about 25 minutes north of Watkins Glen on the west side. Glenora’s terrace is one of the best vantage points on the lake — the view stretches for miles across the water to the eastern hills. Their sparkling wines are a good way to start the morning, and the five-course chocolate and wine pairing is worth the extra fee if you have a sweet tooth.

Ten minutes further north, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard is one of the founding estates of Finger Lakes winemaking. Wiemer (now led by winemaker Fred Merwarth) produces some of the most elegant dry Rieslings in the eastern United States. The tasting room is in a restored 19th-century barn surrounded by estate vineyards. If you’re serious about wine, this is a required stop. Tastings are available without reservation most days, but calling ahead on summer weekends is wise.

Late Morning: Fox Run Vineyards

A short drive north brings you to Fox Run Vineyards. Fox Run is known for the Taste Buds flight — a pairing of five wines with five small bites, each designed to engage one of the five taste receptors: salty, sour, sweet, bitter, and umami. It’s educational without being stuffy, and it’s one of the best values on the wine trail. Fox Run also offers vineyard and cellar tours if you want a behind-the-scenes look at production.

Afternoon: Back to Geneva

The drive from Fox Run back to Geneva takes about 30 minutes along the lake. Use the afternoon to walk Geneva’s South Main Street — a stretch of 19th-century mansions now on the National Register of Historic Places — or to sit on the lakefront at the Seneca Lake pier. If you have energy for one more tasting, Billsboro Winery is right at the north end of the lake, just outside town.

Dinner: FLX Table

If you planned ahead, your weekend ends at FLX Table, a 12-seat BYOB restaurant on Linden Street run by Christopher Bates and Isabel Bogadtke. The multi-course tasting menu changes nightly and draws from the region’s farms, dairies, and lakes. This is one of the most acclaimed restaurants in upstate New York, and the intimate format means reservations are released in advance and sell out quickly. Check their website or social media for the reservation schedule — if you see an opening, take it.

If FLX Table is full, Geneva has several strong alternatives. FLX Wienery (also Bates’s) serves elevated hot dogs and Finger Lakes wines in a casual storefront. Belhurst Castle, your potential lodging, has its own dining room with lake views.

Where to Stay

• Belhurst Castle — A stone castle and estate on the west side of Geneva with lake views, an on-site restaurant, and a winery. Rooms range from the historic castle to a more modern vinifera inn on the property.
• Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel — The only hotel directly on the Seneca Lake waterfront in Watkins Glen. A good option if you want to split the difference geographically and be close to the state park. Book well in advance for summer weekends and NASCAR race weekends at the nearby Watkins Glen International track.

Trip Planning Notes

• Best time to visit: Late May through October. The gorge trail opens in mid-May, harvest season runs September through October, and fall foliage peaks in mid-October.
• Designated driver: With this many tasting room stops, plan accordingly. Use a pour-and-dump cup, split tastings, or book a tour service. Several companies offer guided wine trail transportation from Geneva and Watkins Glen.
• Gas: Fill up in Geneva or Watkins Glen. Options thin out along the rural stretches of Route 414.