The Lake That Forks

Keuka Lake is the only Y-shaped lake in the Finger Lakes — and one of the few Y-shaped lakes anywhere in the world. The stem runs roughly north-south for about 12 miles from Hammondsport at the southern tip to a dramatic bluff at Bluff Point, where the lake splits into two branches: the northwest branch reaches toward Branchport, and the northeast branch extends toward Penn Yan. The total shoreline stretches about 60 miles around those three arms. The lake is 186 feet at its deepest and about 20 miles long from Hammondsport to Penn Yan.

The Y-shape gives Keuka a geography that’s unlike the other Finger Lakes. The bluff between the two branches rises 700 feet above the water and creates two distinct microclimates — one facing east, one facing west. Stand at the top of Bluff Point on a clear day and you can see water on three sides. It’s the best land-based panorama in the Finger Lakes, accessible by a moderate 3.5-mile trail through Bluff Point State Park.

Where FLX Wine Began

The Finger Lakes wine industry started on the shores of Keuka Lake. In 1860, the Pleasant Valley Wine Company (later Great Western) began commercial winemaking in Hammondsport, making it the first bonded winery in the United States. A few years later, Gold Seal Vineyards followed. By the early 20th century, Hammondsport was producing sparkling wine that won international competitions.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant who arrived in the 1950s, proved that European vinifera grape varieties could survive Finger Lakes winters — a breakthrough that the established wine community resisted for years. His vineyard, Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, still operates on the west side of the lake above Hammondsport. It remains one of the most important estates in the region, and the Rieslings and Rkatsiteli produced here are direct descendants of his original plantings.

Wineries Worth Your Time

• Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery — The historic estate. The library tastings, when available, are the best way to understand what Finger Lakes wines can do with age.
• Heron Hill Winery — Perched above the northwest branch with panoramic views. The Ingle Vineyard Riesling is consistently strong.
• Keuka Spring Vineyards — A family operation that produces a broad range, with particularly good Vignoles and Lemberger.
• Domaine LeSeurre — A French-born winemaker working with Finger Lakes fruit. The approach is Burgundian; the results are interesting.

Hammondsport

Hammondsport sits at the southern tip of Keuka Lake, population roughly 700. The village square faces the water, and the main street is about three blocks long — but within those blocks are restaurants, wine bars, and shops that draw a steady weekend crowd from Memorial Day through October.

The village has a second identity beyond wine. Glenn Curtiss, the aviation pioneer who built the first seaplane and won the first pre-announced public flight in America, was born here in 1878. The Glenn H. Curtiss Museum on Route 54 houses a collection of early aircraft, motorcycles (Curtiss held the land speed record on a motorcycle before he turned to aviation), and local history. The museum is thorough and well-curated — plan at least 90 minutes.

Penn Yan

Penn Yan sits where the northeast branch of Keuka Lake meets the Keuka Lake Outlet. The name comes from a combination of “Pennsylvania” and “Yankee,” reflecting the town’s two founding groups. It’s a working agricultural town — the Mennonite community in the surrounding area runs farm stands and bakeries that sell some of the best baked goods in the region. Birkett Mills in Penn Yan has been milling buckwheat flour since 1797 and claims to be the world’s largest producer of buckwheat products.

On the Water

Keuka Lake is cleaner than most of the Finger Lakes, with visibility often reaching 15 feet or more. The lake is popular for swimming, kayaking, and boating, though it can kick up quickly when wind funnels through the branches. Sailboaters favor the wider southern section below the bluff.

Fishing on Keuka targets lake trout in the deeper southern section and smallmouth bass along the rocky shorelines of both branches. The DEC stocks lake trout and rainbow trout annually. Keuka doesn’t get the fishing pressure that Seneca and Cayuga do, which is part of its appeal for anglers who prefer not to share.

Public Access Points

• Keuka Lake State Park (west side, Branchport) — Campground, boat launch, swimming beach, hiking trails
• Hammondsport Village Square — Carry-in boat launch and public lakefront
• Champlin Beach (Penn Yan area) — Small public beach and launch
• Indian Pines Park (east side) — Town park with a boat launch

The Keuka Lake Outlet Trail

The Outlet Trail runs 7.5 miles from Penn Yan to Dresden, following the natural outlet stream that connects Keuka Lake to Seneca Lake. The trail is flat, shaded, and follows the path of an old railroad bed. Along the way it passes the remains of several 19th-century mills and a series of small waterfalls and cascades. It’s one of the best easy walks in the Finger Lakes — suitable for all fitness levels, open year-round, and rarely crowded.

Distances

• Rochester: 70 miles to Hammondsport (about 1 hour 20 minutes)
• Syracuse: 95 miles to Penn Yan (about 1 hour 40 minutes)
• Corning: 20 miles to Hammondsport (about 30 minutes)
• Buffalo: 115 miles to Hammondsport (about 2 hours)

When to Go

The wine trail is open year-round, but most wineries keep reduced winter hours from December through March. Summer weekends in Hammondsport fill up fast — if you want a lakefront rental, book by February. The Bluff Point trail is best from May through November; in winter, the access road may not be plowed. Fall color around Keuka peaks in mid-October, and the combination of foliage reflecting off the Y-shaped shoreline is among the finest views in the region.