The Case for a Winter Visit
Most visitors picture the Finger Lakes in summer or fall — lake swimming, wine tasting in the sun, leaf-peeping in October. Those seasons are beautiful, but they are also crowded. Winter in the Finger Lakes is a different experience: quieter, colder, and in many ways more rewarding. The lakes generate their own weather, producing lake-effect snow that coats the hillsides and gorges in white, while the deep water keeps shoreline temperatures milder than the surrounding countryside. Wine tasting rooms are uncrowded. Restaurant reservations are easier to get. And the landscape — stark, snow-covered vineyards against slate-gray water — has a beauty that summer visitors never see.
Winter does require preparation. Temperatures from December through February regularly drop below 20°F, and sub-zero nights are not unusual. Lake-effect snow can drop a foot or more in a single storm. But if you dress for it and plan for it, the Finger Lakes in winter are deeply satisfying.
Downhill Skiing and Snowboarding
Bristol Mountain, in the hills south of Canandaigua, is the largest downhill ski area in the Finger Lakes and one of the best in Western New York. The numbers: 1,200 feet of vertical drop (the most between the Adirondacks and the Rockies in this latitude range), 38 trails, and 5 chairlifts including a high-speed quad. The terrain skews intermediate, but there are legitimate expert runs on the mountain’s steeper north face, and the grooming is consistently good.
Snowmaking covers 100% of the terrain, which matters in a region where natural snowfall is variable. Night skiing runs until 9:00 PM most evenings. The lodge is functional rather than charming — this is a ski hill, not a resort — but the on-mountain bar serves craft beers from regional breweries.
- Season: Typically mid-December through mid-March, snow conditions permitting.
- Lift tickets: Adult day tickets range from $60-$85 depending on day of week and time of season. Discounts for half-day, night, and midweek sessions.
- Rentals: Full rental packages available on-site.
- Lessons: Group and private lessons for all ages and abilities. The children’s program starts at age 4.
- Getting there: 25 minutes south of Canandaigua, roughly 1.5 hours from Rochester or Syracuse.
Greek Peak Mountain Resort
Located near Cortland (about 40 minutes east of Ithaca), Greek Peak offers 55 trails across 220 acres, a terrain park, and a tubing center. The vertical drop is 952 feet. Greek Peak also has an indoor waterpark (Cascades) at the attached Hope Lake Lodge, which makes it a better choice for families with kids who split their enthusiasm between skiing and swimming. Lift tickets are slightly lower than Bristol.
Cross-Country Skiing and Snowshoeing
Harriet Hollister Spencer sits on a hilltop between Honeoye Lake and Canadice Lake, and its 10 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails are the best in the Finger Lakes. The trails wind through mixed hardwood and hemlock forest at elevations above 2,000 feet, where snow tends to be deeper and more persistent than at lower elevations. Three loops offer varying difficulty: the easiest is a 2-mile circuit through flat terrain, while the most challenging loop includes steep climbs and fast descents. The parking area is plowed, and the trails are typically groomed after significant snowfall by local volunteers. No fee. No facilities beyond a parking lot — bring everything you need.
- Best conditions: January through February, after fresh snowfall. Call the Ontario County Parks Department or check local trail reports for grooming status.
- Equipment: Bring your own. Rental equipment available in Canandaigua at Eastern Mountain Sports or Bristol Mountain’s rental shop.
Cumming Nature Center
Operated by the Rochester Museum and Science Center, Cumming Nature Center in Naples has 15 miles of trails through 900 acres of forests and wetlands. In winter, these trails are open for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. The center provides snowshoe rentals ($5-$10), making it an easy entry point for beginners. The Beaver Trail (1.2 miles) and the Conservation Trail (3.4 miles) are the most popular winter routes. A warming hut at the trailhead has hot cocoa and restrooms. Open weekends in winter, 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM. Admission is $5 for adults.
The 30 miles of hiking trails in the Finger Lakes National Forest are open for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in winter. The terrain is gentler than Harriet Hollister Spencer — rolling meadows and forest rather than steep hills — which makes it good for beginners. Trails are not groomed; you are breaking your own track. No fee. Free primitive camping is allowed year-round, though winter camping here requires cold-weather gear and experience.
Wine Trail Winter Events
The wine trails run some of their most popular events during the holiday season, when tasting rooms are decorated and crowds are smaller than at summer events.
Deck the Halls (Seneca Lake Wine Trail)
Held on three consecutive weekends in November and early December, Deck the Halls pairs wines with holiday-themed food pairings at each participating winery. Ticket holders receive a commemorative wine glass and a “passport” to present at each stop. Each winery offers a different small plate — cider-braised pork, artisan cheese, chocolate truffles — designed to complement a featured wine. Tickets sell out weeks in advance; buy early. Designated driver tickets are available at a reduced price.
Keuka Holidays (Keuka Lake Wine Trail)
A smaller-scale version of Deck the Halls, with food and wine pairings at Keuka Lake wineries over two weekends in November. The intimate size of the Keuka trail means less driving between stops and more time at each winery.
Winter Tastings
Beyond organized events, winter is the best time for unhurried tasting. Staff at most wineries have more time to talk, pour, and explain in January than they do in August. Many wineries offer reserve or library tastings in winter that they are too busy to run in peak season. Call ahead to confirm hours — some small wineries reduce to weekends only from January through March.
Holiday Events and Festivals
Dickens Christmas, Skaneateles
Every weekend from Thanksgiving through late December, the village of Skaneateles transforms into a Victorian-era streetscape. Costumed actors portraying Dickens characters — Scrooge, Tiny Tim, Bob Cratchit — roam the streets, interact with visitors, and perform short scenes in doorways and on corners. Horse-drawn carriage rides circle the village. Shops along Genesee Street extend their hours and serve hot cider and cookies. The event is free (carriage rides and shopping cost money, obviously). Skaneateles’ downtown is small, walkable, and well-preserved — the setting makes the event work. Arrive early on Saturdays; parking fills up.
Lights on the Lake, Onondaga Lake Park (Syracuse)
Just outside the Finger Lakes region, this two-mile drive-through light display runs from mid-November through early January. More than two million lights are arranged in themed displays along Onondaga Lake. The drive takes 15-20 minutes. Admission is per car ($6-$20 depending on the night). It is a reliable family activity on a winter evening, easily combined with a Finger Lakes trip.
Winter Lodging
Belhurst Castle sits on the north shore of Seneca Lake in Geneva, and its stone turrets and lakefront setting take on a particular atmosphere in winter. The property includes three buildings with rooms ranging from standard hotel-style to suites in the original 1889 stone castle. Winter rates are significantly lower than summer — often 30-40% less. The on-site restaurant, Edgar’s, serves steaks and seafood with lake views. A spa operates year-round. Midweek winter stays are quiet and atmospheric.
The Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars
Glenora’s 30-room inn on Seneca Lake offers wine trail weekend packages in winter that include tastings and discounts at nearby wineries. Rooms have lake views. The on-site Veraisons restaurant serves dinner nightly. Winter rates from $129-$199.
Other Winter Activities
- Ice fishing: The shallower Finger Lakes — Honeoye, Conesus, Otisco — freeze reliably enough for ice fishing. Honeoye Lake is the most popular, with panfish (bluegill, perch) and pike. The deeper lakes (Seneca, Cayuga, Keuka) rarely freeze fully and are not safe for ice fishing. Check ice thickness locally before venturing out — 4 inches minimum for foot traffic.
- Frozen waterfalls: Taughannock Falls in winter, when the 215-foot cascade freezes into a column of blue-white ice, is one of the most dramatic winter sights in the state. The Gorge Trail may be closed, but the Rim Trails offer views of the frozen falls. Watkins Glen’s gorge also develops impressive ice formations visible from the rim.
- Indoor activities: The Corning Museum of Glass (open year-round, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM) offers glassblowing demonstrations and make-your-own-glass workshops. The Sciencenter in Ithaca is a hands-on science museum geared toward families. The Johnson Museum of Art at Cornell is free and open year-round.
- Hot springs: There are no natural hot springs in the Finger Lakes, but several hotels and resorts have heated indoor pools and spa facilities. Belhurst Castle and Greek Peak’s Hope Lake Lodge both have spa services.
Winter Driving Tips
- Lake-effect snow: Snow squalls can reduce visibility to near-zero with little warning, especially on the leeward (east) sides of the lakes. Seneca and Cayuga Lakes produce the strongest lake-effect bands. Keep headlights on and reduce speed when conditions change.
- Road conditions: Main highways (Routes 14, 96, 89) are well-maintained. Secondary roads and wine trail routes may take longer to plow. Check 511ny.org for road conditions.
- Tires: All-season tires are the minimum. Snow tires or all-wheel drive are strongly recommended from December through March.
- Gas up: Rural gas stations may close early in winter. Do not let your tank drop below a quarter full.
