Hermann Wiemer left Germany’s Mosel Valley in the 1960s, eventually establishing his own vineyard on the west side of Seneca Lake in 1979. His thesis was similar to Konstantin Frank’s but more narrowly focused: that the right site on Seneca Lake could produce Riesling to rival the best of Germany. Decades later, the consensus is that he succeeded. The estate’s HJW Vineyard Riesling and Magdalena Vineyard bottlings consistently earn critical recognition as some of the finest white wines made in North America.

Now managed by winemaker Fred Merwarth, who trained under Wiemer for years before assuming leadership, the estate continues its founder’s meticulous approach. The winery also operates its own vine nursery, supplying grafted vinifera vines to vineyards throughout the Northeast. The tasting room, set in a converted barn, is understated and focused on the wines themselves. Dry Riesling is the calling card, but the Gruner Veltliner and late-harvest offerings deserve attention as well.