Two Gorges, One Day

Ithaca’s gorge parks are the reason hikers come to the Finger Lakes. Taughannock Falls gets the most attention (tallest single-drop waterfall east of the Rockies), and Watkins Glen gets the most Instagram posts, but locals will tell you that Robert H. Treman State Park and Buttermilk Falls State Park, sitting within a few miles of each other on the south side of Ithaca, offer the best combined hiking day in the region. Between them, you get a 115-foot waterfall with a natural swimming hole, a 12-pool gorge trail through old-growth forest, a 165-foot cascade that drops in stages alongside a stone staircase, and — if the season and your timing cooperate — the chance to swim at the base of a waterfall.

Both parks are in Ithaca’s city limits or just outside, making them easy to reach from downtown. And because they are 3 miles apart by car, you can do both in a day without spending the whole day driving.

Robert H. Treman State Park

Robert H. Treman sits along Enfield Creek, about 5 miles southwest of downtown Ithaca on Route 327. The park covers 1,070 acres and contains two distinct trail sections: the Enfield Glen trail at the lower entrance and the Rim Trail connecting to Lucifer Falls at the upper entrance.

The Lower Entrance and Swimming Area

The lower entrance off Route 327 is where most visitors start. The main attraction here is the swimming area at the base of a small waterfall — one of the few places in the Finger Lakes where you can swim in a natural gorge pool with a waterfall flowing above you. The pool is a genuine swimming hole: cold, clear, surrounded by rock walls, with a lifeguard on duty from late June through Labor Day. The bottom is rocky (water shoes recommended), and the water temperature stays in the 60s even in August. Kids love it. Adults who remember what swimming holes were like before liability lawyers ruined everything love it more.

Above the swimming area, the Enfield Glen trail climbs through the gorge along the creek, passing a series of pools, cascades, and stone walls. The trail is roughly 2.3 miles one way from the lower entrance to Lucifer Falls, gaining about 400 feet in elevation. The footing is uneven — stone steps, some steep, some wet. Allow 60 to 90 minutes for the ascent.

Lucifer Falls

The highlight of the park. Lucifer Falls drops 115 feet in a narrow gorge of layered shale, and the viewing point is from a stone bridge that crosses above the falls. The plunge pool below churns green and white. In spring and after heavy rains, the volume of water is tremendous — the gorge fills with mist and sound. By late summer in a dry year, the falls thin but remain photogenic.

The stone bridge, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, is one of the finest CCC structures in New York State. The craftsmanship — hand-laid stone walls, arched spans — reflects a level of public-works ambition that we no longer invest in. Take a moment to appreciate it beyond the waterfall photo.

Rim Trail

From Lucifer Falls, the Rim Trail loops along the top of the gorge back to the lower entrance, about 3 miles. The trail passes through old-growth hemlock and hardwood forest with occasional views down into the gorge. The Rim Trail is less dramatic than the gorge trail but peaceful and shaded — a good cooldown after the climb. The combined gorge-trail-up, rim-trail-down loop totals about 5 miles and takes 2.5 to 3.5 hours.

Practical Details

• Parking: Lower entrance lot holds about 100 cars. Fills by 11 a.m. on summer weekends. Arrive early.
• Entrance fee: $8 to $10 per vehicle on summer weekends. Free on weekdays and off-season. Empire Pass accepted.
• Swimming: Open late June through Labor Day with lifeguard. Free with park entrance.
• Trail conditions: Gorge trail is steep, wet, and rocky. Sturdy shoes essential. Not stroller-friendly. The Rim Trail is wider and easier.

Buttermilk Falls State Park

Buttermilk Falls sits along Buttermilk Creek on Route 13, about 2 miles south of downtown Ithaca and 3 miles from Robert H. Treman. The park’s signature feature is the 165-foot Buttermilk Falls, which cascades in a series of steps and pools alongside a stone staircase that climbs the full height of the falls.

The Falls and Gorge Trail

The Gorge Trail starts at the base of Buttermilk Falls, next to the swimming area and the main parking lot. The trail climbs alongside the falls on a stone staircase with iron railings, gaining the full 165-foot elevation change in about 0.2 miles. It is steep but manageable — the steps are solid and the railings give confidence. The spray from the falls keeps the stairs wet, so watch your footing.

Above the main falls, the gorge trail continues along Buttermilk Creek for about 1.5 miles, passing smaller cascades, pools, and scenic creek views. The trail ends near Treman Lake, a small impoundment at the upper end of the park. The upper section is less dramatic than the falls staircase but pleasant walking through woods.

The total out-and-back from the parking lot to Treman Lake and back is about 3 miles, with roughly 500 feet of elevation gain. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours. The Rim Trail offers a loop option, adding about a mile.

The Swimming Area

The swimming area at the base of Buttermilk Falls is one of the most scenic swimming spots in the Finger Lakes. You are literally swimming at the base of a 165-foot waterfall, with the cascade falling in white curtains above you. The pool is natural rock with a sandy bottom in some areas. Water is cold (upper 50s to mid-60s). Lifeguard on duty late June through Labor Day. The experience of floating in a gorge pool while a waterfall thunders above you is not something you forget.

Practical Details

• Parking: Main lot holds about 75 cars. Fills by 10:30 a.m. on hot summer weekends. Overflow parking along Route 13 when the lot fills.
• Entrance fee: $8 to $10 per vehicle on summer weekends. Free weekdays and off-season.
• Swimming: Open late June through Labor Day. Free with park entrance.
• Trail conditions: The falls staircase is steep but has railings. Above the falls, the gorge trail is narrower and rockier. Sturdy shoes essential.

How to Do Both Parks in One Day

Here is the order I recommend:

Morning (8:30 – 11:30 a.m.): Start at Robert H. Treman State Park (lower entrance). Hike the Enfield Glen gorge trail up to Lucifer Falls (60 to 90 minutes). Return via the Rim Trail (60 to 75 minutes). If the swimming area is open and you are overheated, take a dip before leaving. Total time: 2.5 to 3.5 hours.

Lunch (11:30 – 12:30 p.m.): Drive 10 minutes to Ithaca for lunch. The Ithaca Bakery on North Meadow Street is fast and good. Or pick up sandwiches to eat in Buttermilk Falls State Park.

Afternoon (12:30 – 3:30 p.m.): Drive to Buttermilk Falls State Park (5 minutes from downtown Ithaca). Hike up the falls staircase and gorge trail to Treman Lake (45 to 60 minutes up). Return the same way or via Rim Trail (45 to 60 minutes). Swim at the base of Buttermilk Falls to finish the day.

Total hiking: 7 to 8 miles combined. About 800 to 900 feet of total elevation gain. Moderate difficulty.

Best Time to Visit

For waterfall volume: Late April through early June, when snowmelt and spring rains maximize flow. The falls are most dramatic during this window.

For swimming: Mid-July through August, when water temperatures are most bearable and lifeguards are on duty.

For fall foliage: Early to mid-October. The gorge walls turn orange and gold, and the combination of colored leaves and white water is stunning.

To avoid crowds: Weekday mornings in June or September. Summer weekends are packed — arrive before 9 a.m. or skip to a weekday.

For more gorge hiking, see our guides to waterfalls near Ithaca, Watkins Glen gorge trail, and Taughannock Falls vs. Watkins Glen.