Gorges, Grapes, and a College Town That Earns Its Reputation

Ithaca sits at the southern tip of Cayuga Lake, where glacial geology and a university town’s progressive energy have produced something genuinely unusual: a small city (population 32,000, roughly 50,000 when school is in session) surrounded by 150-plus waterfalls within a 10-mile radius, with a food and drink scene that punches well above its weight class. The famous bumper sticker says “Ithaca Is Gorges,” and for once the pun is accurate — the city is built on and around deep gorges carved by streams rushing to meet the lake.

Three days gives you enough time to hit the major gorges, drive the wine and cider trail, eat well, and still have a morning to walk the Cornell campus without feeling rushed.

Day 1: The Gorges

Morning: Taughannock Falls State Park

Drive 10 minutes north of Ithaca on Route 89 to Taughannock Falls State Park. The main event is Taughannock Falls itself — a 215-foot single-drop waterfall, taller than Niagara. The Gorge Trail to the base is an easy, flat, three-quarter-mile walk along the creek bed, suitable for all fitness levels including young children and strollers. The trail dead-ends at a viewing area directly below the falls, where the shale amphitheater towers above you.

If you want a workout, the North and South Rim Trails climb the gorge walls and offer dramatic overlook views from above. Each rim trail is about 1.5 miles one way. Dogs are allowed on leash on all trails here — a contrast to Watkins Glen, where they’re banned from the gorge.

Parking is in the main lot off Route 89. There’s a vehicle entrance fee ($8-10) on summer weekends. Arrive before 10 a.m. to beat the crowds.

Lunch: Ithaca Farmers Market

Head back into Ithaca and straight to the Ithaca Farmers Market at Steamboat Landing on the Cayuga Lake waterfront. This is not your average farmers market. More than 125 vendors — farmers, bakers, chefs, and artisans — set up in a covered pavilion overlooking the lake. The food stalls serve everything from wood-fired pizza and Ethiopian injera to hand-rolled sushi and Neapolitan-style gelato. Come hungry and graze.

The market runs Saturdays (9 a.m. to 3 p.m.) from April through December, with additional Sunday and weekday markets in summer. Saturday morning is the main event. Parking can be tight — the waterfront lot fills fast, but a free shuttle runs from the Green Street garage downtown.

Afternoon: Robert H. Treman State Park

After lunch, drive 15 minutes south of Ithaca on Route 13 to Robert H. Treman State Park. This park is wilder and more rugged than Taughannock — the Gorge Trail climbs 2 miles through a deep, narrow canyon past 12 waterfalls, culminating at Lucifer Falls, a 115-foot cascade visible from a stone bridge. The trail involves significant stair-climbing and uneven footing; wear proper shoes.

At the lower end of the park, the stream pools at the base of Lower Falls form a popular swimming hole — one of the few places in the Finger Lakes where you can swim at the foot of a waterfall. The water is cold even in August, but on a hot day, it’s perfect. The swimming area has lifeguards on duty in summer.

Day 2: The Cayuga Lake Wine and Cider Trail

Morning: Sheldrake Point Winery

Drive 20 minutes north on Route 89 to Sheldrake Point Winery, set on a bluff above the western shore of Cayuga Lake. Sheldrake Point grows all its grapes within view of the tasting room — estate-grown Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. The tasting experience is relaxed and personal: pour flights at the bar, then carry your glass to the Adirondack chairs on the lawn overlooking the lake and vineyards. The property also has a deck restaurant, Simply Red Bistro, that opens for lunch on summer weekends.

Sheldrake Point sits on the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail — America’s first organized wine trail, established in 1983. The full trail has about a dozen member wineries and tasting rooms, plus cideries and a meadery. You don’t need to hit them all; be selective.

Late Morning and Afternoon: The Cider Corridor

Ithaca has quietly become one of the top cider-producing areas in the country, with at least 10 cideries within a 30-minute drive. After Sheldrake Point, head south and inland toward two standouts.

South Hill Cider operates on a hillside south of Ithaca, crafting ciders from hand-foraged wild apples and fruit from abandoned orchards — flavors you won’t find at a conventional cidery. The tasting room is small and seasonal; check hours before visiting. The ciders are bone-dry, complex, and closer to natural wine than to anything you’d find in a grocery store.

Finger Lakes Cider House at Good Life Farm in Interlaken (about 25 minutes north of Ithaca) is a destination in its own right. The property is a working organic farm that showcases ciders from multiple Finger Lakes producers alongside a farm-to-table food menu. You can tour the orchard, sample ciders in the tasting room, and eat lunch on the deck. The setting — rolling hills, sheep in the pasture, apple trees in every direction — is as appealing as the drinks.

Dinner: Hazelnut Kitchen, Trumansburg

End the day at Hazelnut Kitchen in Trumansburg, a village 15 minutes north of Ithaca. Chef Julie Upton’s restaurant is a cornerstone of the Finger Lakes farm-to-table movement — the menu changes frequently based on what’s available from nearby farms and producers. Expect dishes like pan-roasted local trout, braised pork with seasonal greens, or a vegetable plate that treats produce as the main event. The wine and cider list is exclusively Finger Lakes.

The restaurant is small (maybe 40 seats) and popular. Reservations are essential on weekends, especially in summer and fall. Trumansburg itself is a charming one-intersection village worth a short walk before or after dinner.

Day 3: Cornell, Culture, and One More Gorge

Morning: Cornell University Campus

Ithaca’s identity is inseparable from Cornell University, which occupies a sprawling hilltop campus above Cayuga Lake. Even if you have no university affiliation, the campus is worth a morning walk. The mix of Collegiate Gothic stone buildings, Brutalist mid-century towers, and I.M. Pei’s modernist Johnson Museum of Art creates one of the most architecturally varied campuses in the country. The views from the slope above the Arts Quad — looking north over Cayuga Lake — are genuinely stunning.

Walk across the suspension bridge over Fall Creek Gorge for a vertiginous view of the water 140 feet below. Then head to Cascadilla Gorge, a trail that connects the campus to downtown Ithaca via a steep path past eight waterfalls. It’s about a mile of stone steps and bridges — a commute that would be unremarkable anywhere else but is spectacular here. (Note: Cascadilla Gorge is seasonal and can close in wet or icy conditions. Check locally.)

Park in the metered lots on campus (free on weekends during summer) or at the base of Cascadilla Gorge near College Avenue.

Late Morning: Museum of the Earth

Drive or walk to the Museum of the Earth on Trumansburg Road, about 5 minutes from campus. Run by the Paleontological Research Institution, this museum tells the story of Earth’s 4.5-billion-year history with a focus on the Finger Lakes’ own fossil-rich geology. The centerpiece is a complete right whale skeleton suspended from the ceiling. The exhibits are smart, well-designed, and engaging for adults and older children. Budget about an hour.

Lunch: Moosewood Restaurant

Return to downtown Ithaca and the Ithaca Commons — a pedestrian-only stretch of State Street lined with independent shops, bookstores, and restaurants. Lunch is at Moosewood Restaurant, the collectively owned vegetarian institution that has been operating since 1973 and has published a shelf of influential cookbooks. The food is unpretentious, flavorful, and globally influenced — expect curries, grain bowls, hearty soups, and salads that make a strong case for vegetables as the center of the plate. No reservations; expect a wait at peak lunch hour (noon to 1 p.m.).

Afternoon Option: Buttermilk Falls

If you still have energy and time before heading out, Buttermilk Falls State Park is a 5-minute drive south of downtown. The main waterfall cascades down a series of rock ledges into a natural swimming pool at the park entrance — you can see it from the parking lot. The Gorge Trail climbs steeply alongside the creek past 10 waterfalls in about a mile. The swimming area at the base is open in summer with lifeguards.

Alternatively, spend the afternoon browsing the Ithaca Commons. Buffalo Street Books is an excellent independent bookstore. Autumn Leaves Used Books is a multi-floor treasure hunt for readers. And the various craft and artisan shops reflect the creative energy that has always defined this town.

Where to Stay

• The Statler Hotel at Cornell — On campus with a teaching restaurant (Taverna Banfi) and easy access to the gorge trails.
• Argos Inn — A boutique hotel in a converted mansion on the edge of downtown, with a craft cocktail bar.
• La Tourelle Hotel — South of the city, set on 70 acres with views of the valley and proximity to Buttermilk and Treman parks.

Trip Planning Notes

• Getting there: Ithaca is about 4.5 hours from New York City, 3 hours from Philadelphia, and 1.5 hours from Syracuse. Ithaca Tompkins International Airport has regional connections through Delta and United.
• Parking downtown: The Green Street garage is centrally located and reasonably priced. Street metering ends at 6 p.m. and is free on Sundays.
• Gorge closures: Most gorge trails close from November through mid-May. Spring runoff makes the waterfalls most dramatic in April and May, but trails may not yet be open. Check park websites before planning.
• Best time to visit: June through October for full trail access. Ithaca Farmers Market is best June through October. Fall foliage peaks in mid-October.